I don’t get invited to as many Burgundy wine tastings as I’d like, more’s the pity. So it was with great pleasure that I accepted an invitation last week from Ourglass to attend a roving journey through some of the highlights of their current Burgundy list. The venue was the majestic Shoreditch Town Hall and what a treat lay in store.
Ben Johnson and Martin Buchanan (Ourglass founders) have created an exciting new style of wine business designed to meet the needs of today’s younger wine afficianado; somewhere between a wine club and a specialist wine merchant. Their objective is to de-mystify the whole business of wine selection and help wine buyers engage with the story behind the wine makers and what makes the wines Ourglass select a genuinely revelatory experience. This way wine lovers can feel more connected with the wines on offer and find styles and regions that better suit their tastes and budget.
The eclectic range of Burgundies on show last week included both white and red examples and were curated to showcase a range of styles and producers across the region that reflect the diversity of today’s Burgundian growers. They ranged from a modern style St Veran to mature Pommard from the relatively small harvest of 1995.
The full lineup included:
- Anne Boisson Bourgogne Aligoté | 2014
- Verget St Veran Interdit | 2014
- Foillard Morgon Côte du Py | 2016
- Gachot-Monnot Côte de Nuits Villages ‘Les Chaillots’ | 2015 & 2014
- Lafarge Bourgogne Rouge | 2005 & 1997
- Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Longeroies | 2000
- Violot-Guillemard Pommard Clos Orvelet | 1995
- Coste-Caumartin Pommard Les Boucherottes | 1992
Martin took us through each of the burgs individually and gave us great background detail on all of the vignerons explaining what they were trying to achieve with their wine and what made them worthy of our interest
The highlights for me were:
Bourgogne Aligote 2014 – no longer a wine consigned to simply providing the base for a refreshing kir but these days something demanding more serious contemplation and appreciation in its own right. This one from Anne Boisson has real attitude and structure with great fruit and acidity and makes one realise what this appellation is capable of in the hands of a sensitive winemaker.
Marsannay 2000 – an often neglected appellation but one that can deliver powerful wines with great finesse. Bruno Clair has crafted a delicious example with supple fruit and integrated tannins that combines complex flavours and velvety mouthfeel in a very elegant package
Pommard 1992 – an altogether sensory and sensual treat. It garnered a rhapsody of praise for its maturity, depth and opulence. A handsome, muscular, brooding wine like a vinous Marlon Brando in the movie “On The Waterfront”! The Coste-Caumartin lingered long on my tastebuds and mind and was a worthy closing wine for the event.
I look forward to trying more wines from Ourglass especially their new range from South Africa https://ourglass.wine