If there isn’t a collective noun for a select group of Hampshire Vineyards there should be! I’ll start the ball rolling with dazzle or, maybe, exaltation, even, (perchance) richesse… This thought sprung to mind as I surveyed the rapidly filling room at 67 Pall Mall and navigated my way around the elite group of vineyards from Hampshire who were quitely swanking about their premium sparkling wares at the London Trade & Press Tasting 2 days ago
I was never more than 6’ from a wine scribe wherever I stood in the room: Oz Clarke, serenely sipping and smiling; Joe Fattorini – always ready for a selfie; Hugh Johnson doggedly trying every wine; Dr Jamie Goode studiously quizzing the winemakers and Sorcha Holloway chattering away at 100 mph. The ‘buzz’ was palpable
We were all here to marvel at the coming of age of 8 stand out winemakers and discover the differences in the juice they were wringing out of this prized chalky terroir, hitherto more lauded for its watercress, fly-fishing and cricket. The Test Valley Eight comprised: Black Chalk, Cottonworth, Danebury, Exton Park, Hambledon , Hattingley Valley, Jenkyn Place, Raimes
In the interests of full disclosure I visited Exton Park in 2018 and got a very insightful tour from Kit Ellen and I have met head winemaker, Corinne Seely, at an Honest Grapes tasting. But it was a treat to be able to chat to vineyard manager Fred Langdale (who bears a passing resemblance to Nick Cave!) and hear about their exciting plans for 2019-20
My main takeaway from the day was the unbelievably high standard of product now available from the South Downs and how fortunate connoisseurs of sparkling wine are that they can enjoy the superb fruit grown on this famous chalky soil, in so many different guises: Classic Cuvée, Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noir, Demi-sec, Vintage
It is not hyperbole when I tell you I was thrilled by the racy acidity evident in all these wines, which bodes well for their maturation. I am fascinated to see how some of these wines evolve in the coming years and am convinced they will provide graceful and dazzling drinking as we move into the roaring 20’s
Make no mistake these are refined wines and they are making their mark in the vinousphere. As the good doctor (J Goode) said in his recent tweet … “some super wines on show at today’s wines of Hampshire tasting – some truly world class”
For me the standouts were Cottonworth, Exton Park, Hambledon and Hattingley Valley. But don’t take my word for it. Hop into your drophead roadster, head down the A31 and go and visit the wineries yourself. You can be sure of a warm Hampshire welcome and some fabulous walking in the New Forest to boot
My thanks to Rosamund Barton at R&R Teamwork for inviting Fuseblower along and for the impeccable behind the scenes organisation that went into the Vineyards of Hampshire Tasting
Fuseblower 