At the same time as Justin Bieber was making his debut at St Joseph’s Maternity Hospital in London, Ontario, some 3,600 miles away Patrick McGrath MW was hatching a plan – together with a small alliance of wine estates – to launch a wine agency that better represented select, family-owned, wine companies. The 3 apostles, if I may call them that, supporting him were: Eduardo Chadwick (from Errazuriz, in Chile) George – now Sir George – Fistonich (New Zealand’s Villa Maria) and Pierre-Henry Gagey (Louis Jadot in Burgundy). Hatch Mansfield was born in 1994 and Patrick McGrath became the MD
Fast forward a quarter of a century to a collection of some of the most distinguished wine families and wine grandees – gathered at The Ned, in London – to celebrate the 25thAnniversary of Hatch Mansfield, and pay tribute to Patrick’s vision back in 1994
It’s one of those moments in wine culture where I think you can put your finger on 1994 and say: that was it, that was the day, that was the time, that was the year
The ranks of the 3 pioneers were augmented steadily over the following 25 years by the addition, to Hatch’s portfolio, of: Jean-Luc Colombo, CVNE, Joseph Mellot, Robert Oatley, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger and Kleine Zalze. As if that wasn’t enough jewels in the Hatch crown, in 2019 Gaja (yes, that Gaja!) and Terroirs et Talents joined this illustrious throng. The grand Anniversary Dinner, last Wednesday, played host to all these remarkable wine estates, and their wines, in a dramatic and stylish setting, with the original three members of this exclusive club, Eduardo, Sir George and Pierre-Henry very much in evidence
Eduardo Chadwick is an ebullient and charismatic winemaker – and Decanter Magazine’s ‘Man of The Year 2018’. He is rightly proud of his achievements in Chile and the respect his flagship wines are accorded by Messrs Parker, Suckling, et al: Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve, Vinedo Chadwick and Seña are big, intense world-class wines by any measure. Eduardo tells me he remembers fondly the 2004 Tasting of Berlin (hosted by Steven Spurrier) when he wanted to see how his Cabernet dominated wines would score alongside the equivalent styles from Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. He says he couldn’t have been more surprised when Viñedo Chadwick 2000 came first in the tasting and Seña 2001 came second. (“the greatest moment was beating Latour!”). Eduardo was also unveiling his latest wine here – Las Pizarras Pinot Noir. Proving Chile’s potential for Burgundian varietals and Eduardo’s determination to push the limits with radical new stylings of Pinot Noir
Sir George Fistonich – Primus inter pares – is an animated and passionate septuagenarian who started his wine life as
a Kiwi ‘garagiste’. He responded warmly to my enquiry about his beloved Ngakirikiri that Jamie Goode has spoken so highly of. It represents the pinnacle of Villa Maria’s winemaking achievements and you don’t need my blandishments to persuade you of the outstanding qualities of this wine. Sir George’s principle is that Ngakirikiri may only be bottled when idyllic vintages produce truly outstanding wines for consideration. On the evidence of the 2014 vintage, that he regarded with all the pride of a benevolent parent, this is a wine for serious hedonists. He was just as enraptured by his Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc blend The Terraces 2008 which is a badass wine if ever there was one! The Fistonich influence is also ensuring great things are happening at Esk Valley, Vidal and Left Field wine estates which all come under the Villa Maria umbrella
Pierre-Henry Gagey has been described by novelist and wine essayist, Jay McInerney, as… “the most urbane and polished of French diplomats…” and his discreet charm belies a zero tolerance of anything that doesn’t match his quality threshold for all things Burgundian; from Beaujolais right up to Chablis. The exacting standards he and Jacques Lardière (former winemaker at Jadot) set throughout the 90’s & 00’s laid the platform for the quality and reputation of their wines that current winemaker, Frédéric Barnier, is entrusted to uphold. Pierre-Henry believes Burgundy is a place of great spirituality and is a passionate advocate of the influence of terroir. On the basis of the Côte de Beaune reds and whites, I tasted, his philosophy is still paying off with distinction. Jadot Burgundies are a byword for quality and longevity and have something to suit every pocket. As if to bear this out I must make special mention of the Château des Jacques, Clos des Thorins 2000, Moulin-à-Vent which was exquisite. It has been said that, if, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is the Ferrari of Burgundy, Louis Jadot is the Mercedes
Over the course of the evening Fuseblower chatted to, amongst other distinguished guests:
- Giovanni Gaja, scion of the eponymous Piemonte powerhouse that his obsessive, perfectionist, father Angelo has built. The 1999 Barbaresco, Giovanni poured, had me in raptures. A wine to make a bishop kick a hole in a stained glass window!
- Kobus Basson, owner of Stellenbosch’s legendary winery, Kleine Zalze, whose Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 is rated very highly by Tim Atkin – it is a rich, powerful and generous Cape wine that left me awestruck
- Catherine Corbeau-Mellot, President of Joseph Mellot – producer of incomparable
Madame le Président Sancerre wines – and, nowadays, prestigious Pouily-Fumé too
- Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, provocative enfant terrible of Champagne, who now has his sights set on making the first vintage of Domaine Evremond English Sparkling wine, in 2019, after establishing a vineyard in Kent as a j-v with Hatch Mansfield
Steven Spurrier, Oz Clarke, Tim Atkin were all present and correct, pas de Jancis (sad face), along with Secret Sommelier, Nick Breeze, and Skin and Pulp’s Sophia Longhi. The food and service at The Ned was exemplary and, throughout the evening, speeches, laughter, animated conversation and some of the most ethereal wines on the planet kept us enthralled. It reminded me of the perfect Italian wedding – lacking only the singing – to transport me back to Piemonte and a friend’s nuptials. Speeches from Patrick McGrath MW, Eduardo Chadwick, Stephen Spurrier and Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger were eloquent, witty and courtly, as befitted such a grand celebration
Hatch Mansfield has been an astute barometer of the tastes and trends of today’s wine drinkers and done much to enhance the reputation and accessibility of some of the finest new world and old world wines alike across a quarter of a century. Patrick and his amazing team should be rightly lauded for this extraordinary achievement. Happy Anniversary Hatch!
Fuseblower would like to extend his gratitude to Hatch Mansfield for inviting him to share their anniversary evening and to Rupert & Rozza of R&R Drinkers for facilitating his attendance
Fuseblower 